I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move. - Robert Louis Stevenson

30 April 2019, Otjiwarongo to Khoi Khoi Guest House, 73,4km
Khoi Khoi Guest House N$700

“You are too old for this! This is something you do when you are young.” So said the young man behind the counter of the Kilo 40 Farmstall & Charcoal into which we had popped to buy a sugary drink each. In contrast, the receptionist/manager at Khoi Khoi told us of a biking couple who had spent a night here last year: she was in her 60s, he in his 70s.
When we told good friends of ours we were planning a bike ride through Africa, one of them said he was not sure of the appeal, explaining: “In Africa, you will spend all day cycling from this bush to that bush.” Today we did just that. And into a headwind which began early and blew all day.
We did see a large herd of blesbok. And weavers’ nests hung like Christmas decorations from thorn trees. And unattended traffic cameras, powered by solar panels. And, rarity of rarities, a farmstall which made for a brief but welcome break.
There was a police control point not far outside Otjiwarongo. The two men who spoke to us, were not in the least officious, stopped us only out of curiosity, and made us laugh by asking if we had licenses to drive the bikes. In answer to their questions about where we had started and where we planned to end, one of the men gave a strange clap, a dusting of his hands, showing how impressed he was.
Unable to find accommodation somewhere between Otjiwarongo and Otavi, a long 114km from each other, I called a mine whose name appeared on Google Maps, to ask if they could accommodate us or if they would allow us to wild camp on their premises, safely off the road. The young woman to whom I spoke first said it was not allowed, then said if we wanted to use their guest accommodation we needed to arrange access well in advance, then remembered the Khoi Khoi just a km further on, and gave us a telephone number. And here we are. When the mine opened, the farmer across the road sensibly built a guest house offering meals and laundry; 90% of the guests are visitors or consultants to the mine.
The farmer / owner told us shortly after our swim this afternoon that local farmers have lost whole herds blue wildebeest, bontebok, and other game to the drought, only eland seeming to survive without water or fodder. He said people are cutting down the trees to make fodder (Charl saw a small lorry transporting a wood chipper today). And one guest told the owner that during a recent visit to Etosha National Park, she was disturbed by animal corpses lying everywhere.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…