20 April 2023, Zagora
Riad de Rêve R741 [DH389]

Today we gazed through glass at a manuscript crafted by hand in Cordoba, Spain, in 1063... a Quran in beautiful Arabic calligraphy on gazelle hide pages. The manuscript is one of 4000 lovingly protected in tiny Tamegroute's library.
Tamegroute lies 18km south of Zagora. We travelled there by collective taxi and back in a local bus.
"Tamegroute’s... history begins 400 years ago in the 17th century when Sidi Mohammed bin Nasir became a teacher at the desert town’s zawiya (a religious sanctuary and school) originally established in the 11th century. Nasir was a theologian, scholar and physician... He also founded a new religious movement: the Naciri brotherhood, a key Sufi movement of moderate Islam... he was succeeded by his son Ahmad. This began a tradition of a father-to-son succession that has continued until today... Ahmad [made] six pilgrimages to Mecca... through countries such as Ethiopia, Arabia, Egypt, Persia, and Iraq... [taking] the opportunity to... collect a variety of books that he carried back to Tamegroute."
Apparently the library at one point held 50000 manuscripts, most donated to other museums. What remains includes "... illuminated Korans and books on algebra, astrology, astronomy, and pharmacopeia. Also, a 300-year-old copy of the Koran, a 500-year-old Arabic work by Pythagoras... "
Ink was made from burnt wool mixed with water, coloured with tea, henna, saffron, indigo and gold. Pens were cut from bamboo.
--
Back on the bikes tomorrow, headed east.