18-19 April 2023, Zagora, 47km
Riad de Rêve R797 [DH418]

"It's too hard!" was yesterday's refrain. Today's 50km delivered on the meander we had anticipated yesterday and, barring a strong headwind for the last 15km, was (relatively) pleasurable. Don't be fooled by this last word. The wind and the heat between them sucked the saliva dry in our mouths and we arrived in Zagora tired and very ready to detach from the saddle!
We also encountered some ... er ... boisterous boyz. One showed me an f-you sign, the one with a hand in the crook of an elbow and forearm held vertical. One, all of nine or so, pointed to his penis (probably all of two inches). And one ripped my flag from the back of my bike. His friend picked it up and helped me put it back where it belonged, looking apologetic.
We have on occasion encountered aggression from Muslim boys, directed more at me than at Charl. We assume disapproval of my stepping out of a traditional role. Once in eastern Turkey a boy fired a pellet gun at me, hitting me on the temple. Charl followed him home to lodge a complaint with his startled family!
In contrast were the much more frequent calls of bonjour, ca va and the broad smiles.
We were also flagged down by South African couple Deon and Mathilda who, having seen the SA flag on the back of Charl's bike, did a U-turn to speak to us in Afrikaans and serve us Coke with ice. Although young, they have recently retired, shipped their 4x4 camper van to Belgium, and collected it there to begin a round the world tour of unknown duration.
We made use for the first time of a roadside water tap, hoping that the water is indeed potable, but also using it to wet our hats and shirt fronts.
We are staying at an absolutely charming riad (traditional building with an interior courtyard). Sadly, the smell of the drains seeps up through the shower. As those of you who followed us up west Africa will remember, plumbing and Africa are in an uneasy relationship!
Our hosts directed us to a well-priced restaurant offering not only local cuisine, but irresistible sphagetti bolognaise and alcohol-free mojitos! When we got home, they had placed a tray of fruit, salted nuts and sultanas outside our door. So nice!