21 April 2023, beyond Zagora, 36.28km
Nomad's Land Cafe R286 [DH150]
This is where we are sleeping tonight, just 39km from Zagora. We had planned to be 20km further on, closer to the accommodation-less town of Taghbalte, and had prepared ourselves to wild camp in the desert, but the wind conspired against us and this restaurant lured us off the road. (Yes, we are easily lured!)
A strong headwind is the cyclist's enemy. On easy terrain, on a good quiet road, we were forced into low gear, or onto our feet, dropping our possible average from 12kph to 6kph. A strong wind can turn easy terrain into an endless climb. Our first 10km were a pleasure, the next 20km windy and exhausting, though through stunning scenery, the last 10km, less windy but a lot hotter.
We popped into the Nomad's Land for an icy Coke, the only stopping place on this road. We were so tired, we asked if we could take a nap in his open-sided bivouac. When we awoke, we asked if we could spend the night and were welcomed and even shown where we could bathe. We will be eating with the family.
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Slight change of plans. Our host just came to tell us to pack up our things and come into the restaurant as there is a sandstorm coming...
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Today is the last day of Ramadan. We hope that means our lives will be marginally easier, though we understand a siesta is the norm in the afternoon heat. Certainly the lives of Muslims worldwide can go back to normal, a relief for many, I am sure.
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Although it is still windy, the sandstorm passed pretty quickly without too much drama. But yes, we were glad we were not on the road or in the tent.