14
December, Na Phac to Yen Lac, 66km
Nam Sen Guest House 170,000VND
In the tumbled, jumbled hills between Na Phac and Yen
Lac we scored more downs than ups, but we paid for them with several tiring
climbs. Riding up and over and across and down and round and through and beside
and along... In such a confusion of hills, it is impossible to tell where the
road leads. Only one clue is available to the anxious cyclist ... the cement
poles that line the road carrying electrical cables to hidden villages. If you
search carefully as you ride, you might distinguish one or two through the
dense bush on one of the hills ahead, and then you have some idea of what is in
store for you. We saw from a bridge the confluence of two rivers, one muddy,
one clear. They ran beside each other for around 200 metres or so before
merging, the muddy brown dominant in the subsequent flow. We had to travel 5km
off our route to find accommodation, but were happy to do so as we also found a
good restaurant for dinner. We very nearly made a U-turn at the door, but were
persuaded by the English-speaking staff’s kind welcome to stay. Why? Two
reasons. Firstly, all the doors were open to an icy wind. All businesses
operate with doors wide open to the street. The Vietnamese either don
appropriate clothing to cope with the cold, or seem impervious. We are not entirely
prepared for winter in northern Vietnam, having planned to be further south by
now, and find eating in a chilly breeze unappealing. Secondly, the floor was
covered in discarded serviettes, peanut shells and mandarin peel. Both in Laos
and Vietnam, restaurant clientele throw used serviettes, bones and other
detritus onto the floor. In some restaurants bins are placed under the table
which are erratically used. Tonight, there had obviously been a large Sunday
party in before our arrival. The staff soon swept the floor and tidied a table
for us, and although still cold, we dined well in a nicer environment.
Na Phac - breakfast venue
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac
Between Na Phac and Yen Lac