13
December, Ba Be to Na Phac, 44km
Diep Van Guest House 200,000VND
Do not
read this if you can’t bear the thought of dog for dinner. I find it very hard
to get my head around supping on puppy, but millions of Asians worldwide eat
dog as a matter of course, as does a small Swiss community tucked away in the
Alps, and others. Today we saw a dog and two chickens in a basket on the back
of a scooter, clearly en route the market / slaughterhouse. A day or so ago we
saw two men getting onto a scooter. As they did so, a pink sack fell off the
footplate and began to squirm, yelping coming from within. Not a pet, but a
meal. A clear distinction seems to be made between pets and dinner-dog.
Apparently, as the Chinese, for example, grow wealthier and begin to own and
value dogs as pets, a debate is developing, not so much about whether it is OK
to eat dog or not, but about how they are reared and killed. (Seriously, don’t
read more if you don’t want to know more...) In Vietnam, we believe, clubbing
is the preferred slaughter method. This sounds considerably more distressing than
the reality which under ideal circumstances involves securing the dog’s head
and delivering one quick killing blow. But still... Today I saw a dog get
knocked over by a car. He was tumbled about, but OK enough to get up and run
into his home where two women were standing in the doorway. Neither they, nor
the driver responded at all to the incident which had me off the bike and crying
out. We had an excellent, hilly ride arriving in Na Phac in time to have a
pavement lunch of deep fried sweet potato and sausage and to both get a haircut
from a young man with orange hair. Strange but true – the fitter you get, the
more good rides you have!

Between Ba Be and Na Phac

Between Ba Be and Na Phac - brick kiln

Between Ba Be and Na Phac

Na Phac - shop-houses

Na Phac - butchery

Na Phac - lunch

Na Phac

Na Phac - haircut