25 November, Muang La to Muang Khua, 73km
Doinouboun Guest House 70,000LAK

The Lao are eating their way through the Chinese zodiac. We saw a woman roasting skewered rat for breakfast over an open fire, and three young men dissecting a dog for dinner. Interesting to note how deeply-ingrained are one’s own taboos... The road between La and Khua is fantastic. It flows northeast with the Nam Phak river, undulating along the northwest bank through hilly terrain luxuriant with fern and vine and bamboo. Steep hillsides are planted with pineapple, banana and corn. Algae is laid out to dry on raised platforms. Seeds and grains are spread on reed mats in the sun. In the villages someone inevitably calls out “farang” (foreigner) as we enter and adults and kids appear in doorways or stop what they are doing to shout “sabaidee” (hello) and grin and wave. Children play with marbles and spin homemade tops and jump elastic bands roped around girls’ ankles. On occasion one or more boys will challenge Charl to a race. Today I had a gaggle of kids, scythes in hand, trotting alongside me on a slow incline. Behind me, a boy challenged Charl to a bicycle duel and Charl encouraged him to keep up by shouting “trap hom, boetie” (pedal, brother). My gaggle got so caught up in the excitement that by the time we crested the hill and entered the village they were all yelling “trap hom, boetie”. 

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Between Muang La and Muang Khua

Breakfast

Dinner