24 November, Ban Nammiang to Muang La, 62km
Dr Houm Pheng Guest House 50,000LAK

We saw two soldiers standing on the roadside this morning, both dressed in fatigues, both carrying AK47s. One held a dead rat by the tail. Dinner, we assume. We have seen a live mole, trapped and carried home on a scooter and tied to a pole outside a rural home for later slaughter. And a pheasant hanging upside down, fluttering in protest. And other forest critters held captive so that they will be fresh for the meal pot. Again our road provided an incredibly rough ride, jouncing breasts and belly and clacking teeth shut in moments of inattention. The trucks approaching us from in front or behind heard long before they were seen, the rocky sections of road jolting them into a noisy early obsolescence. Udomxai was a surprise. Bigger than expected with wide smooth streets, bicycle lanes, and conspicuous wealth much of which may be Chinese. It is under 100km to the border crossing between Laos and China. We particularly enjoyed the last 15km or so of our day. Our road ran east putting the late afternoon sun behind us, casting a lovely glow over the verdant hills and pretty villages through which we passed.

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La

Udomxai

Between Ban Nammiang and Muang La