2004 Biking North Cape

McDougalls Bay, Wednesday, Dec 22 & Thursday, Dec 23; McDougalls Caravan Park, R313 total per night

We really enjoyed our couple of days in this area. Firstly, our large cottage was virtually on the beach and was always cooled by a sea breeze. Secondly, McDougalls is essentially a family destination and is totally unpretentious (although Charl, out walking alone early one morning, did meet a local man who complained that many of the houses are uncared for and badly built. Charl later came across a house called Port D’Azure and soon thereafter one, no doubt in response to the likes of Charl’s early-morning acquaintance, called Port Dump!).

The bay is totally protected by a ridge out to sea, and so is calm enough for folks to allow their kids the freedom to play virtually unchaperoned. Youngsters swim and fly kites and ride quad bikes. The less young do the same, but also kayak and kite surf and ski, etc.

We had super weather, with cool foggy mornings, and pleasant clear days.

On our first night in town we ate out at the highly-recommended Dine & Wine restaurant attached to the Port Nolloth hotel. Charl and I decided to splurge on crayfish for which Port Nolloth is known, but were very disappointed. The young coloured woman who runs the McDougalls Caravan Park was also dining out with a group of friends. She told us on the following day that when she saw us (and one other cottage group) eating out, she called the security guard and asked him to keep a special eye on the two relevant cottages. Explaining that youngsters in the area are “’n bietjie stout”. She was so charming and so unusually thoughtful…and it came as a bit of a shock to see how forgiving she was of theft!

We drove out on our first morning to Alexander Bay, the last town on the coast before Namibia. A diamond mining town, not particularly attractive, but with a pretty vlei (with resident pelicans) and a wild beach and lovely flora. We did not see the Orange River mouth, unfortunately, at this requires a 4x4 or a long walk along the beach.

We spent a little time strolling/driving around Port Nolloth, photographing the diamond boats and the pretty houses. Also shopping in preparation for Xmas and the possibility of not being able to find supplies in some of the towns through which we were planning to cycle. Outside the Spar is a sign reading: Reg van toegang voorbehou. Geen smouse, leeglêers, bedelaars of dronkies word op perseel toegelaat nie. And signed: Winkeleienaar.

Charl and I swam in the icy, clear bay. And very unsuccessfully tried our hand at kayaking – we kept tipping into the water! We decided that if we ever come and build a house in McDougalls, we will learn to kayak! Charl also helped a thrilled little boy to get his kite aloft and keep it there.

In between all this manic activity we slept, read, watched TV, cooked. A super break from biking.

Springbok, Friday, Dec 24 & Saturday, Dec 25; Springbok Caravan Park, R250 total per night

On the 24th we packed and left McDougalls, driving via Steinkopf, where we tried without success to find the local succulent nursery, back to Springbok.

Again we had super accommodation. No air con – which we were dreading – but the cottage turned out to be so designed that a cool breeze blew through it all the time – and so we were perfectly comfortable.

We did our final shopping at the Spar in Springbok. I do not think I have ever been in a store quite so crowded! But everyone remained calm and civil and we got what we needed and got out of there. Back at the campsite we did our laundry. And then hunted down a ‘Xmas tree’ (a dead branch) which we tied to our bikes and decorated with goodies mom had brought from home. Charl and I swam in the caravan park pool (the park is virtually empty), and later mom swam too. And Charl and I borrowed the car to see if we could find a shortcut onto the N7; then drove into Springbok to look at the koppie in the centre of town and an historic copper furnace nearby.

We had a beautiful almost-full moon on both nights; and genets that wandered around scrounging for food.

On Xmas day we opened our presents, made calls to the family from a tickie box (checking particularly to see how Rose and Whitey were after their car accident) and then drove out to nearby Okiep for a super lunch at the hotel there.

And so to bed, well rested and ready to get back on the bikes.