2004 Biking North Cape

Steinkopf, Monday, Dec 20; Kookfontein Rondavels, R400 total; 55.9 km @ 15 kph; max 56 kph; cycle time 3h37

We are in Steinkopf – north of Springbok on the N7 – having arrived at 10h00. Arrived in fact before mom and dad had completed the shopping in Springbok. We called them to let them know we were here and then fell into a deep sleep only awaking when they pitched later.

Steinkopf is a town with its name written in white stones on a hillside. Originally a Rhenish missionary station (founded in 1819 for the Nama people) and predominantly coloured, it seems. It is a rare pleasure to find ‘non-whites’ living in towns that have always been their own, as these have a more natural, settled feeling than do ‘townships’ on the outskirts of ‘white’ towns.

Our wonderful shoulder was gone, and traffic was heavier on this road, but on the whole all have been careful (a policeman even coming to a complete halt behind me to await an oncoming car before moving out to overtake) – many drivers coloured, most in decent vehicles not skedonks.

The road here, though according to the AA map a downward trend, was very hilly. Providing some great downhill runs counterbalanced by some long trying climbs. Near us for most of the way was the old mule/steam railway and on the roadside some Namaqualand daisies and other pretty flowers and succulents. Steinkopf was visible from 15km away. And the Kookfontein Rondavels just 1 km beyond the turnoff to Port Nolloth.

The old-fashioned km markers that have accompanied us to date (white gravestones in cylindrical containers) changed today. To metal markers, proclaiming the distance done (rather than to do) in .2 km increments. (If the markers are on your right, they indicate distance to go; on your left, distance done.)

Our accommodation in Steinkopf was super – a large two-bed, two-bath rondavel, with windows opening onto a very cool wind – so as good as air conditioned. A municipal place with overnighters travelling in both directions between Namibia and South Africa, and catering to private German and French (eco / fair tourism) tours. They currently sleep 12 and are building two more rondavels.

Across the road and up the hill we could just see a traditional Nama hut – these used to be covered by reed mats but nowadays are covered by hessian or plastic sheets instead.

No bike trouble for two days now. Yay!

Our bums are desperately painful. Raw, mine feels.

McDougalls Bay, Tuesday, Dec 21; McDougalls Caravan Park, R313 total; 101.8 km @ 17 kph; max 57 kph; cycle time 5h56

It was still dark when the guard opened the gate and let us out onto a cool N7 south. And cloudy for the first time this trip. And it remained relatively cool and cloudy for the duration, with the heat hidden behind the clouds and the wind only making itself felt in the latter part of our day.

After a km or less we turned right onto the 382, Port Nolloth/McDougalls Bay bound.

What a day! A fantastic cycling road through lovely scenery. Which we enjoyed thoroughly to at least the 50 km mark despite our sore bums, and somewhat less thereafter despite the road and scenery! Enjoyed until the last hour or so when we were really feeling our tiredness and “moving slowly toward agony” (according to Charl).

The 382 climbs for quite a while initially, past Steinkopf and later past the old Klipfontein Station and Hotel ruins with their water tower and two quiver trees. Not an unmanageable climb, just longish. And then you hit the Anenous (side of mountain) Pass. I had been anxious about this 1:25 pass, but discovered that it dropped in two wonderful segments from the Steinkopf side. A 6-7 km drop. Not too steep – though as usual I used my brakes to limit my speed, whereas Charl did not. Part way through the drop, on an excellent road with a shoulder, the pass flattens out then climbs very slightly. Before the next downward run, Charl and I regrouped and enjoyed the view of the huge flat valley into which we were about to cycle and the clear echo from where we stood. Then down and down and round and along...Exhilarating!

As the sun rose behind us it lit first the tops of the surrounding hills then crept slowly down their slopes and into the valleys, throwing our shadows out long and thin before us.

Our road followed a similar pattern throughout its 90-plus km. A gentle – though often too long – climb over a spur and between two hills, a gentle drop down t’other side, a nice flat through the valley there, a gentle climb over a spur... Our 17 kph average attests to its relative ease.

There are no trees in this part of the world. It is all hills and bush on sand. But what a rich and varied and vivid variety of bushes – some in flower. Tiny vibrant yellow bobbles. Nama daisies in palest pastel. Aubergine succulents with pink flowers. Vygie-type succulents with stems of green or red with delicate-petalled flowers of palest pink fading to cream. Large-leaved succulents deep green with bright red trim that send out long stems of flowers across the semi-desert red/tan sand.

We did see some horses: at one point, with Charl cycling ahead, he startled five horses grazing on a hillside – all of whom looked up to watch him pass by; and once when I was cycling ahead, I was surprised by the sound of clopping hooves and looked up to find a horse had trotted over to take a better look at me. Also saw several goats and some lonely homesteads. But not much seems to be going on out here, agriculturally-speaking.

Mom and dad, asked to leave at 10h30 only, caught us with just 14 km to go. We had a Tab (yuch) and replaced our warm water with cold and promised to meet at McDougall’s Bay.

We are in diamond country and there are signs on the fences here saying: Warning: Diamond area.

Again today the traffic was polite.

One more steep short drop and the road flattened out and Port Nolloth was just visible over there. But this section of road felt as though it would never end, and then there was still the turn to McDougall’s and an unknown distance to the caravan park there.

But we got here safe and sound and are thrilled to be having a four-day rest. We had originally planned a rest day here, then a cycle day back to Steinkopf and one back to Springbok and a rest day there on Xmas day. But we have decided to…er…forego the two repeat trips and give our bodies a chance to heal before setting out again on Boxing Day. So we cancelled our extra night in Steinkopf and managed to get an extra night in our cottage on the beach here instead – and are happy with our lot.