2004 Biking North Cape

Kamieskroon, Sunday, Dec 26; Randspaar Guest House, R380 total; 74.2 km @ 14 kph; max 53 kph; cycle time 5h12

A tiring but super ride. We left our cool and comfortable Springbok abode and got onto the N7 heading south – having cycled first part way up the hill from the caravan park, then cut across the intervening field near a large pepper tree to the N7.

On a cool, cloudy, lovely morning. Heading into more daunting hills than encountered before on this trip. Mom and dad had told us in Upington that the N7 south of Springbok is pretty hilly, so we had had time to prepare ourselves mentally. And our several days of relatively easy cycling and good four days of rest prepared us (to some extent at least) physically.

And we were pleasantly surprised to find that the first 40-plus kms were predominantly downhill to the Buffels River. Although we had several climbs, we had some superb downhill runs. Through tumbled (whaleback?) mountains. The sun here is so overpowering that it cracks and peels huge solid rock hillsides like an onion. On some, the bulk of the cracked boulders on the surface of the rock have given way to gravity/destiny, leaving the next smooth skin exposed and ready to be sun-cracked and tumbled. More bush, less sand. Some trees as we got further south. Riverbeds still dry, however. And finally some farms being cultivated – a sign of more water. Although the only water we saw was early on – I was quite excited, until we realised it was the sewage works (we had felt similarly excited in Aggeneys – with the same outcome!).

At times it was so quiet out there today, that on the hills when our wheel-whirr was subdued by the drop in our speed, all I could hear was the chirping of small birds hopping before me, and the metal guard rails creaking as they expanded in the rising and warming sun.

We passed turnoffs to places called Hondeklipbaai and Gamoep and No Heep.

The last 25 km were pretty tough – especially in the increasing heat. We chose to walk several hills to rest our bums (mine much improved from its four-day saddle rest) and knees. It is this kind of terrain that tests ones fitness – and neither of us are fit.

Again there was very little traffic and what there was was generally polite, careful and friendly. This is exactly why we chose to come to the Northern Cape in the summer heat!

And then a 6 km drop into tiny empty (it seems the whole town is away on holiday) Kamieskroon, with its unusual stone and tin-roof church etched against the sky between the mountains behind.

To find mom and dad ensconced alone in a large guest house. We certainly have been pretty lucky in our accommodation choices. On the whole cooler and more comfortable than anticipated.

First news of the tsunami in Asia!

Garies, Monday, Dec 27; Garies Guest House, R380 total; 53.3 km @ 16 kph; max 56 kph; cycle time 3h12

On Charl’s 55th birthday we set off at 05h20 and were in Garies (hard G) soon after 09h00! Due mainly to some fabulous downhill runs. Before dropping off to sleep last night I had wished Charl a happy birthday for today…in case I forgot in the usual let’s-get-going atmosphere of our early mornings. He said that wasn’t good enough and I made a special effort then to remember his special day by saying “happy birthday” as soon as the alarm woke us (ou man!).

As we left the guest house Charl asked me to photograph our beautiful almost-full moon, which was positioned just behind the weather vane on the church steeple. It remains to be seen whether my photo was a success, but it was quite a sight. We saw the moon again later shining bright over farmland in the slowly lightening day.

We got to Garies so quickly due not only to a shortish distance, but to three fabulous downhills. The first was 3-4 kms, the second 4-5 kms, and the third of 6-7 kms dropped us down a mountainside at a scary pace virtually into Garies’ lap.

We have been seeing several dassies (hyrax, hippo-related) on each day – both dead and alive. Also bright grasshoppers with red heads and legs and bellies striped yellow and black. Also crows flying in rows along the road keeping a beady eye open for roadkill.

We are not too far from the sea, perhaps 60-80 km. At one point where the land dropped away to the west, I thought perhaps the cloud cover we could see out there, was an indication of the ocean being visible perhaps on a clearer day.

We passed a sign for Spoegrivier today – I guess just a spit and a promise of water!

No shoulder still on the N7 and the traffic a little heavier – with InterCape the only badly-behaved drivers, barrelling past us way too close. They create their own weather system as they pass, very windy.

At the Garies Guest House Charl and I were housed in a room named Heuningby and mom and dad in Ou dierbare ding.

Mom and dad, arriving in Garies some time after us, had made a special effort for Charl’s birthday. They had managed, miraculously, to find some fresh and delicious fruit cake at the Kamieskroon garage shop. Also birthday candles with which they made Roman VV in lieu of 55 candles. They gave Charl a broek in which to sleep – with pictures of cars on which the bumper number, though actually saying SS, looked sufficiently like 55 to be impressive! And I gave Charl Pakenham’s Meetings with Remarkable Trees.