23 March 2023, Sidi Mokhtar, 51.21km
Homestay R179.73 [DH100]

We cycled further than we wanted, over 50km, to the first town east of Ounagha that offered a bed. We had seen a "homestay" advertised on Google Maps, in the small town of Sidi Mokhtar, and had arranged for our Essouiara hotel host to make a call and reservation on our behalf. He had had an odd conversation with Mohamed, who was concerned we might not be conservative enough to share his home, that we might be party animals. We expected Mohamed to be an elderly man, therefore, but he proved to be a youngster.
Our first 20km were hard work; luckily thereafter our road, the R207, dropped us into a vast only slightly hilly arena, taking us through small towns in which we were able, despite Ramadan, to purchase colddrinks and coffee to top up our pre-bought breakfast and lunch. Although I don't think people in general will mind seeing us eat between sunrise and sunset, we tried to be respectful by taking our breaks in quiet spots in the shade and consuming there our yoghurt and boiled eggs and bread.
Truth be told, by late afternoon we were hungrily awaiting the setting sun so we could go out and get a proper meal*.
@Bonnie Friedman, we saw the tree-climbing goats. They are now a tourist stop and one is expected to make a donation to take a photograph. We were treated with more gentleness than those disembarking from a tourist bus just as we were departing. As the American woman de-boarding the bus said: "Tree-climbing goats! What the heck!"
The R207 is a double-carriage road, little-trafficked, in good condition and nicely graded. The main benefit of the double-carriage, is that we can cycle our lane knowing anyone approaching from behind has plenty of room to overtake.
It is increasingly hot and increasingly dry.
Of the photos below, one is Charl lighting his cigarette with a magnifying glass, and one is an unexpectedly attractive carpet vendor on the west end of Sidi Mokhtar.
*Eeek. Went out at sunset expecting celebratory crowds eating their fill, something we grew accustomed to in Turkey, but most places were closed! One place had prepared a soup for passing bus trade, so we were fed, but not quite what we hoped...