11-12 October 2023, Shtip, 49.92km
Anka Apartment 1800 den [R584]

Today was a public holiday: "Day of the Macedonian Uprising is a public holiday in North Macedonia, commemorating what is considered there as the beginning of the communist resistance against fascism during World War II in Yugoslav Macedonia, on October 11." 
Like much else in North Macedonia, controversy mars the story of heroism - too complicated to go into here...
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We cycled 50km between Negotino and Shtip (Štip) on virtually traffic-free roads, gaining 730 metres in elevation during the first 22km. Some segments of the climb were at 7.5%, some at 8%. We walked these and others on a beautiful day winding our way through hills and trees and bush in virtual silence. 
Shtip is a small city of 45,000 people built under and across hills. We found an open restaurant for a late lunch then made our way to our apartment where we are spending a second night. 
Getting service at the restaurant was slow and frustrating. We thought at first it was because the restaurant was busy, but when people coming in after us were served before us, we determined that something else was up. Eventually Charl got up to tap the waiter on his shoulder, looking to gain some attention. "Sit down" was the waiter's response. When he eventually came to take our order, it was clear he was anxious about his ability to do so in English. He brought with him a Macedonian menu to match the English version we were studying, and took time with me counting down the items in each menu so he could be sure he understood what it was we wanted. We wondered if tourists tend to be impatient or aggressive, or if his nervousness was based more on perception than reality. In the end, we were kind to him and he to us and we departed well fed and on excellent terms.