The journey is the destination. - Dan Eldon

30 November 2019, Kahnple to Ganta (by taxi)
Traveller Guest House 2,000L$ (R154)

WhatsApp: We heard the following and have come to embrace it: nothing works in Africa, but everything works out. The roads are much worse in the rainy season, so "OK" is relative, I guess. 14 years ago Liberians were having their hands amputated by rampaging rebels. Since then they have had three successful elections and a normal change of government. Progress is slow and few seem to get the economics right, sadly. Also, rooting out endemic corruption is very difficult - we see money change hands at police roadblocks, though as you know in all these months we have had only one bribe demand. I will write more about what is upbeat about Africa...
What we love about Africa and Africans, and what has pleasantly surprised us: people almost without exception are friendly, polite, kind, patient and generous. There has been less bureaucracy than we anticipated, and on the whole it has been polite and helpful, if a little slow due to few computers. Lots less corruption than anticipated. Many better (Chinese) roads than expected. Fewer mosquitoes. Better food, and not once has it made us ill. If you want to put two bikes in a car from a to b, "no problem". If there is no room for the general factotum to travel in the car, he will instead sit on the roof. Almost without fail, we have been charged what a local would be charged. Less begging than expected. Drivers north of SA are alert and accommodating. People are essentially honest and we feel mainly safe. We have on several occasions slept with our door open because of the heat. People work hard. Take the politicians out of the equation, and most Africans just want peace.
It's a roller-coaster, with lots to despair about and much to admire.
South Africa really feels different. So much more aggression on the roads and between people. Would NEVER sleep with my door open or leave my bike unattended. I know most people in SA are good people, but the baddies take it to a whole other level. And I suppose my expectations are higher. SA is moving in the wrong direction. Would be ridiculous to regress to roads like Liberia's.
When you read about the personal fortunes amassed by leaders, it's shocking. $500 million here, $500 million there. Blatant theft at the expense of the poor.
Most people all over the world are decent. It is foolish not to take precautions, however, against those who are not. And even decent people can become monsters given the right trigger - witness Rwanda. Have been reading a little about child soldiers in Liberia and Sierra Leone. Terrifying how fast the kids could be dehumanised into killing and mutilating in casual fashion.
We are conscious that perhaps many we meet here, now in their mid-40s, early-50s, may have killed as children.