Some beautiful paths can't be discovered without getting lost. - Erol Ozan

4 August 2019, Lambaréné to Bifoun, 79.12km
Auberge de L’amitie 5,000CFA (R125)

Today we passed homesteaders offering what we think is oil palm fruit for sale, both on the branch and individually in bowls… Also an alligator, seemingly killed with two quick blows from an axe or machete. And an endangered pangolin. At one village we saw two or three forest cats on offer. We asked permission to take a photo, as we usually do, but an unusually aggressive young man demanded money and waved us away when we declined. His call…
At one of our stops, a Nigerian man owned the store from which we bought softdrinks. It is extraordinary how often storekeepers are from elsewhere in Africa. Senegal, Ethiopia, Cameroon, and more.
We really enjoyed our ride today, but were more than ready to unboard our bikes by the time we reached distant Bifoun. We had seen a small pink auberge during a brief stop in Bifoun on our return drive from Libreville to Lambaréné, so knew exactly where we planned to spend the night, always a bonus. A cheerful woman showed me the room and shared loo and said she would clean both before we took occupation. Our room was basic, with a bucket bath shower en suite and the loo next door. It was big enough to hold the bikes, something we prefer if at all possible. It was colourful in blue and pinks, the bedding freshly laundered.
Our host left her task of packing dried banana crisps into plastic bags for sale to passing motorists and passengers to walk me up the road to a restaurant offering spaghetti for dinner, which smelt delicious. I asked whether they were open a little later and got what I thought was a clear commitment, but when Charl and I returned after our bath, they had no food left. Luckily a less orderly place across the road was open and we were served deep fried chicken and spaghetti at a table covered in plastic. The cutlery was on a silver dish, the condiments in large jars to be shared by whoever occupied the long table and benches on either side.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…