28 January, Nha Trang to Cam Ranh, 65km
Hotel Phat Minh 300,000VND

When I finally caught up with her on a long, flat stretch of road, I was surprised to find she was cycling her old sit-up-and-beg, gearless bike, in 12cm high wedge heels. Her hair was pinned in a knot on her head, tendrils about her neck; her salmon jacket cinched tight around a Scarlet O’Hara waist; her features obscured by a floral face mask*. She passed Charl and me a little later as we drank in a pretty view and a Sprite. When we hit the hill, however, we overtook her again with ease as she had been forced to dismount and walk in those impractical shoes. About half way up the incline she came whizzing by us, assisted by an autocyclist, his right leg extended, his foot on her back axle, pushing her faster than we could possibly ride. Otherwise an incidentless ride, although we did meet and chat to a German cyclist who said he had taken up smoking for the duration of his cycle trip as it seemed a good idea to “filter” Vietnam’s polluted air through a cigarette!

* Many Vietnamese, especially women, wear face masks, particularly on their autocycles, to reduce dust and pollution intake and protect their facial skin from sun and wind, we assume.  

Between Nha Trang and Cam Ranh

Between Nha Trang and Cam Ranh

Cam Ranh temple

Cam Ranh temple