24 January, Song Cau to Dai Lanh, 89km
Thai Tuan Guesthouse 150,000VND

The AH1 drifted south in hillier, more rural terrain, pushing and pulling us through a quintessential Vietnam. White egrets in optimistic green rice paddies; palm trees etched against a light blue sky; women in conical hats tending their fields or biking their casual way somewhere and back; brown nets suspended beside blue boats in tranquil bays; Buddhist temples and hills and heat. The heat an embrace, not a burden. The pass that dropped us into Dai Lanh climbed from the north side in a sweeping, single ascent. It dropped on the south side, however, in a series of descents, a long, lovely ride looking down at the sea and the islands dotted thereon. From the bridge at the bottom of the pass we watched men rowing round basket boats at the close of day. They row standing up, using a single oar at the front of the boat, their unusual, single-handed motion moving the boat at unexpected speed. We dined well in untouristed Dai Lanh on fried fish and fresh tomatoes, but doubt we will sleep well: the railway line runs just behind our hotel, the AH1 just in front of it, and the host’s TV is blaring up the stairwell from two floors below.   

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Between Song Cau and Dai Lanh

Dai Lanh

Dai Lanh

Dai Lanh

Dai Lanh

Dai Lanh