2014/15 Biking Southeast Asia Daily Snippet

21 January, Quang Ngai to Hoai Nhon, 77km
Yen Thu Hotel 250,000VND

We have had a super day. Not least because the road was virtually free of roadworks and my replacement chain, though not entirely resolving my gear difficulties, made a substantive improvement to my riding experience. In addition, the sun shone all day for the first time in weeks and it was hot but not too hot. Lastly, we ended the day at a hotel with a view of the sea. Not a spectacular view, but nice enough. En route Hoai Nhon we passed two more military cemeteries, each grave marked Liet Si (martyr); and passed reeds for mats laid out to dry, coloured green and red and mustard; and drank in new-green rice paddies stretching to the far hills and back. One could spend weeks in Vietnam eating “street food” only. Enterprising Vietnamese produce an astonishing variety of meals without the benefits of running water, electricity, or a permanent place to set up chairs and tables. We often buy for breakfast a crisp baguette roll filled with freshly-made omelette, sliced meat and a variety of unknown sauces and greens. This “banh mi” is inevitably produced from a glassed in “cabinet” on wheels and served to you at a tiny plastic table brought along by the vendor. Last night we dined well on rice and chicken at a popular corner “restaurant”, the young woman managing to serve her signature dish accompanied by carrot soup and a variety of sauces, all fresh and attractive and yummy.