15
January, Hue to Lang Co, 95km
Chi Na Guest House 150,000VND
At the mouth of the Perfume River lies a long, narrow
island – a spit of sand between a lagoon and the sea. The island is dubbed the
city of tombs or city of ghosts and is renowned for its colourful graveyard and
ancestral family temples / chapels. We cycled a narrow road here through one
fishing / farming village after another, enchanted by all we saw despite having
cycled this route previously in 2009. The large cemetery lies predominantly on
the white dunes behind the houses on the east side of the road. Sometimes
though, it spills between the houses down to and across the road, where it
stretches to the lagoon. Some graves are simple, sandy mounds; many are ornate
and sizeable. Those villagers that can afford it – usually because a family
member working abroad sends money home – build temples / chapels to honour
their ancestors to whom they pray for good fortune. Many of these elaborate
structures are larger than the homes beside them, and considerably more
adorned. Auspicious animals, mosaic dragons, turtles and phoenixes, decorate
the roofs and pillars; murals tell heroic tales; statues are reflected in small
pools. After crossing the bridge at the south end of the island the road
meanders along the lagoon shore before crossing the railway line and rejoining
the AH1. Heading south it climbs two hills before dropping into Lang Co, which
has grown out of all recognition in the five years since we last spent a night
here. Fabulous ride; fabulous day.
Hue
Hue
Island life
Island life
Island life
City of Ghosts - graveyard
City of Ghosts - graveyard
City of Ghosts - graveyard
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple
City of Ghosts - ancestral temple