6 January,
Vio to Dong Hoi, 116km
Tam Ly Guest House 200,000VND
A long
day made possible by generally easy terrain and a tunnel through a mountain. A
humid day under cool cloud. Long sections of the AH1 are being upgraded. We are
convinced every kilometre has been assigned to a different contractor resulting
in an erratic, haphazard process. A day redolent, therefore, of tar and paint
and dust. Two superb meals in a row have put me back in charity with Vietnam
(yesterday my infatuation wavered – there are days like that). Last night we
dined on a fish soup thick with vegetables and, a neat touch, fresh pineapple; and
on sticky rice and fried pork accompanied by pickled cabbage. And this morning
were introduced to banh xeo, a rice batter “sizzling cake” topped with meat and
onions and mushrooms and served wrapped in thin sheets of rice paper. Again
today we passed paddies being ploughed and prepared for planting. In adjacent
fields, the ricelings are green and fresh and hopeful, waiting to be replanted
to feed a nation.

Between Vio and Dong Hoi

Between Vio and Dong Hoi

Between Vio and Dong Hoi

Between Vio and Dong Hoi

Banh Xeo