16 December, Hanoi (by bus)
Hoan Kiem Hostel 225,000VND
We had three good reasons for leaving our bikes
in Binh Gia and taking a local bus to Hanoi, five hours away. Our hotel
receptionist called the bus company last night to let them know we would be
waiting outside at 05:30 this morning, and they picked us up there, amused and
unduly impressed by our greeting everyone on the bus with a cheery “Xin Chau”
as we boarded. Reason 1: We have a dinner date with good friends from South
Africa passing through Hanoi tomorrow night. Reason 2: We need to apply for our
Chinese visas at the embassy in Hanoi before the holiday season complicates
processing times. Reason 3: Charl’s disc brakes, recently replaced, are worn
down to the metal after just six weeks of cycling through the mountains of Laos
and Vietnam; we have brought the brake system with us to town. We fell in love
with Hanoi’s Old Quarter five years ago on our first visit to the city, and
again this afternoon. What’s not to love? Narrow roads and sidewalks choc-a-bloc
with pedestrians and vendors, bicycles, scooters, taxis and buses. A calm and
mannerly chaos, a spontaneous order. We love the ladies selling fresh flowers
and fruit from the back of their bikes or from round, flat baskets hanging at
either end of a pole across their shoulders. We love the independence and
confidence of both men and women, virtually raised on scooters, riding them
with grace through the madding streets. We love the fact that the Vietnamese
delight in eating street food, seated on tiny plastic stools on sidewalks
packed with parked bikes. Looking forward to spending a day or three surrounded
by the comforts of big city living.

Hanoi Old Quarter

Hanoi Old Quarter

Hanoi Old Quarter

Hanoi Old Quarter

Hanoi Old Quarter

Hanoi Old Quarter