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16 December, Hanoi (by bus)
Hoan Kiem Hostel 225,000VND

We had three good reasons for leaving our bikes in Binh Gia and taking a local bus to Hanoi, five hours away. Our hotel receptionist called the bus company last night to let them know we would be waiting outside at 05:30 this morning, and they picked us up there, amused and unduly impressed by our greeting everyone on the bus with a cheery “Xin Chau” as we boarded. Reason 1: We have a dinner date with good friends from South Africa passing through Hanoi tomorrow night. Reason 2: We need to apply for our Chinese visas at the embassy in Hanoi before the holiday season complicates processing times. Reason 3: Charl’s disc brakes, recently replaced, are worn down to the metal after just six weeks of cycling through the mountains of Laos and Vietnam; we have brought the brake system with us to town. We fell in love with Hanoi’s Old Quarter five years ago on our first visit to the city, and again this afternoon. What’s not to love? Narrow roads and sidewalks choc-a-bloc with pedestrians and vendors, bicycles, scooters, taxis and buses. A calm and mannerly chaos, a spontaneous order. We love the ladies selling fresh flowers and fruit from the back of their bikes or from round, flat baskets hanging at either end of a pole across their shoulders. We love the independence and confidence of both men and women, virtually raised on scooters, riding them with grace through the madding streets. We love the fact that the Vietnamese delight in eating street food, seated on tiny plastic stools on sidewalks packed with parked bikes. Looking forward to spending a day or three surrounded by the comforts of big city living.

Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi Old Quarter
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