10
December, Viet Quang to Na Hang, 88km
Hoc Nu Guest House 200,000VND
We ran out of light before we ran out of road,
arriving in Na Hang at around 18:00, 30 minutes or so after full dark. We try
very hard not to be on the road after dark, but made a later-than-hoped start
and spent nearly an hour finding the correct road after making a minor route error.
The road at the tail-end of the day was also interspersed with some biggish
climbs, some at 10%. What a spectacular ride we had, some of the scenery
unassuming, some dramatic, all of it beautiful. We raced optimistic school
children through rural villages, our gears compensating for our age and weight.
Some kids ride bikes that are way too big for them; some give lifts to friends
who from their perch above the back wheel help with the pedalling. Women and
girls cycling old sit-up-and-begs, backs straight and quite often with one hand
tucked in a warm pocket, manage in their slender elegance to look as though
they are making an advert for air freshener, the kind of ad where animated
flowers float about in the background. Having located a guest house we went
straight out to dinner in all our cycling dirt, concerned the only restaurant
we had seen would close if we took the time to shower. As on two or three other
occasions, someone from a neighbouring table came over to ours, a bottle of
homemade rice moonshine in one hand and three shot glasses in the other. Three
drinks were solemnly poured, a toast made, the shots tossed back and, following
double-handed handshakes, the celebrant went back to his table. On this
occasion, as our neighbouring table comprised a fairly large party, we were
treated to four such incidents. Communication without words.
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang
Between Viet Quang and Na Hang