29
November, Dien Bien Phu
Binh Minh Guest House 300,000VND
Our
stroll through Dien Bien Phu’s market left us both feeling uncomfortable and
resulted in a lengthy discussion about carnivorous man and humane behaviour.
The vast variety of fruit and vegetables and herbs and pulses did not, of course,
illicit this response. It was the livestock on offer that disturbed. Eels
squirming in a basin of shallow water were OK, but the purchase of one by a
squatting shopper resulted in it being skinned alive after being slung through
air, its head wacked on paving to stun it. We saw frogs tied together with red
ribbon to prevent a jumping escape and fowl strung upside down, hanging
helpless from their bound feet. We saw a dog in a cage on the back of a scooter
and several already butchered and de-haired lying on tables beside bottles of
their blood. We saw cats looking bewildered (yes, I’m projecting...), sharing a
hutch with rabbits destined for the pot. We talked afterwards about excess
sentimentality, about which animals it is OK to eat (assuming you think it OK
to eat any), about whether one decides based on intelligence or cultural norms,
about humane rearing and killing and about pain.* The Vietnamese are awed by my
size and are not shy about saying so. The women squeeze my arms and hips and
stroke my belly, assuming I share their laughter and incomprehensible comments.
I’m dusting off my sense of humour... On our way to the market we encountered a
woman who collects cardboard and other recyclable goods. She had piled her
bicycle so high with her hoard for the day that it had fallen over and she
could not resurrect it. She was really happy when Charl stopped to lend a
helping hand.
* Some
photos below will be disturbing to sensitive viewers.
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market
Dien Bien Phu market