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13 February, Ben Luc to Go Dau, 61km
Thanh Nhu Guesthouse 200,000VND

Everywhere people are preparing for Tet and the Lunar (Chinese) New Year, which falls this year on February 19. Spring-cleaning homes and tidying graves, shopping for new clothes and cooking special meals, paying off debts and planning family visits, buying and displaying peach, kumquat and orange trees, and potted plants bearing yellow and red flowers. Our flat road brought us to Go Dau in time to find a hotel, take a shower and catch a local bus to Tay Ninh in order to visit the Cao Dai* headquarters. Lonely Planet: “The Cao Dai Great Temple at the sect’s Holy See is one of Asia’s most unusual and astonishing structures. Built between 1933 and 1955, the temple is a rococo extravaganza blending the dissonant architectural motifs of a French church, a Chinese temple and an Islamic mosque.” Back in Go Dau, just 11km from the Cambodian border, we had an excellent meal, our last in Vietnam, dining on barbecued fish and glazed chicken wings under a thatch roof on the edge of a small lake. We often shop for dinner by picture, when the menu offers this option to a linguistically-stranded foreigner. Sometimes by drawing pictures of our own, such as a fish, or by flapping our arms to illustrate chicken wings. 

* www.religionfacts.com: “Cao Dai ... is a syncretist Vietnamese religious movement with a strongly nationalist political character. Cao Dai draws upon ethical precepts from Confucianism, occult practices from Taoism, theories of karma and rebirth from Buddhism, and a hierarchical organization (including a pope) from Roman Catholicism. Its pantheon of saints includes such diverse figures as the Buddha, Confucius, Jesus Christ, Muhammad, Pericles, Julius Caesar, Joan of Arc, Victor Hugo, and Sun Yat-sen.” The religion was founded in 1926 following “a communication from the supreme deity during a table-moving séance”. Caodaism has two to six million adherents.

Between Ben Luc and Go Dau
Between Ben Luc and Go Dau
Between Ben Luc and Go Dau
Between Ben Luc and Go Dau
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh
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