2 August, Van
Bahar Otel 60TL (negotiated down from 70TL)
The ferry to Akdamar Island departs only
once there are at least 15 passengers, so when the local bus from Van dropped
us at the small port that services the island, we had to wait awhile. We had
come prepared to wait and sat patiently eating bananas and drinking Cappy fruit
juice until sufficient numbers, mainly local families, warranted us boarding. We
left the dockside, but twice returned to collect additional visitors. The
island sits 3km into the lake. On it is a restored Armenian church built in
921. Faded frescoes enliven the stone interior; beautiful relief carvings on
the exterior walls relive biblical stories. We climbed the hill behind the
church for a panoramic view of church, island, lake and framework of mountains,
then visited the church, then took a swim in Lake Van. The waters are clear and
warm, the mineral content making it possible to simply float, buoyant and
lightweight and free. Back in Van I surprised the staff at a men’s barber by
asking for a haircut. Two previous attempts to get my hair cut at a barber in
Van had been unsuccessful, on each occasion the young barber looking rather
shocked. While every town sports numerous barber shops, it is much harder to
find or even identify a beauty or hair salon for women. These are often hidden
above or below street level and never sport the transparent windows of the men’s
salons. Loving the coffee at our local çay evi, from which, from our hotel
room, we can hear the clack of backgammon pieces.

Van - our local çay evi from our hotel room

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church

Akdamar Island and church