14 July, Hilvan to Şanliurfa, 55km
Otel Urhay 75TL (breakfast included)

Super cycling to Urfa, renamed Şanliurfa (Glorious Urfa) in 1984; a city of over 800,000. For a week or so now, every time we have mentioned to anyone that we were en route Şanliurfa, their response has been “Very, very hot”. And yes, indeed, it is. On the bike, protecting my skin from the sun remains a difficult-to-resolve problem. I wear a long-sleeved shirt with a collar to cover body and neck, and gloves on my hands. The shirt has not proved to be entirely sun-proof and since getting on the bike I have developed quite a dark, bra-shaped tan on back, arms and chest. The gloves end at my middle knuckle, so while my hands remain white, my finger tips are brown – rather odd-looking. But it is my face that concerns me. I wear quite a wide peak that in optimal conditions protects forehead and nose. When the sun is low, however, it burns in beneath the peak. Suntan lotion does not work as I sweat this off in no time at all. I have taken, therefore, to attaching a scarf to the peak. This I tie under my chin when the sun is low, cycling through the countryside mimicking the local ladies; when the sun is high, I tie it behind my head, which Charl says makes me look like a Bedouin. Charl’s arms and legs are brown, brown, brown. He has been entertaining the local men by lifting his cycle pants an inch or two, pointing to his white upper thigh and saying “South Africa” then pointing to his brown knees and saying “Turkey”.

Between Hilvan and Şanliurfa

Şanliurfa