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13 July, Siverek to Hilvan, 38km
Hakan Otel 80TL

Shorter distance, easier territory, cooler weather, better day. We cycled past fields of corn and tomatoes, and past fields of hay already cut and being packed in white sacks. The fields were delineated by large black boulders, cleared from the ground to make space for planting and piled to form rough walls. At our one brief stop, the proprietor of the roadside stall lay wrapped in blankets, fast asleep on a mattress next to a shaded side wall. All his fridges were locked, except one. From this we helped ourselves to a cold lemon-flavoured litre, leaving the empty bottle and 2TL where he would later find them. As usual our passing solicited shouts of “Hello” from fieldworkers and invitations to join them for çay – the invite accompanied as always by a stirring motion. Yesterday was so hot that when I stood still the sun lasering through my black trackshoes felt as though it might set my socks on fire! We have cycled just over 2,500km.

Between Siverek and Hilvan
Between Siverek and Hilvan
Between Siverek and Hilvan
Between Siverek and Hilvan
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