22 May, Ayvalik
Kydonia Hotel 70TL
(negotiated down from 90TL)
Ayvalik
lies on the coast across a narrow stretch of water from the Greek island of
Lesvos. The new town is an unappealing sprawl of two-and three-storey apartment
blocks; the old town, originally Greek, is a delight. Tall, slender, contiguous
homes built directly onto stone streets so narrow pedestrians must step into
doorways to allow vehicles to pass. Many of the buildings have been allowed to
go to ruin, but many have been and are being renovated. The town has a sad history.
Following the Turkish War of Independence, fought against the Allies after WWI,
Greece and Turkey agreed to a “population exchange” which saw 1.5 million
Greeks expelled from Turkey and 350,000 Turks sent “home” from Greece. Although
the exchange was carefully thought out and implemented, it could not help but
result in violence, loss and heartbreak. Two of Ayvalik’s Greek Orthodox
churches have been converted into mosques – both a practical solution and a poignant
reminder.
Ayvalik
Ayvalik
Ayvalik
Ayvalik - church converted to mosque
Ayvalik - church converted to mosque