2001 Biking South Africa

Day 21, Friday, July 6
Graaff-Reinet to 29km before Willowmore
150.3km @ 18kph

Today we broke our previous longest-distance record of 140km – testament to a relatively easy route and an absence of wind. We began the day early and cold on the steps of the town hall where both the Rotary and cycle clubs presented us with cheques for the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund, and the mayor, Daantjie Jafta, gave a speech. The mayor, on a bike borrowed from a second-hand store, three cycle-club members, and three or four youngsters from the mayor’s school, accompanied us on the first 15km of our long day. The road to Aberdeen took us past wonderful mountains – one lightly sprinkled with snow; but beyond Aberdeen our day was enlivened only by the sighting of an owl. 

Today we broke our previous longest-distance record (of 140km in New Zealand), doing 150km between Graaff-Reinet and Willowmore. Testament to easier terrain and wind-free weather. A faster average undoubtedly makes for an easier day – maybe one day we will get fit before a trip and faster averages will be the norm rather than the exception!

We were accompanied by the mayor, some youngsters from the school at which he teaches, and three cycle club members for the first 15km. After a little cheque-handing-over ceremony on the steps of the town hall. We took it easy – cycling at the mayor’s pace (and ours), he on an old borrowed bike; not at the pace of the obviously much fitter and faster cycle clubbers.

We were accompanied by pretty scenery and a good shoulder as far as Aberdeen: hills in lovely shades, a sprinkling of snow, beautiful light. The terrain was flatter and less interesting for much of the distance after that.

Gavin et al joined us 30km before Aberdeen – he and the kids cycling with us – where we had tea and said our goodbyes.

In Aberdeen, the unemployed sit in small despondent groups. What do you do all day if you cannot find a job?

We saw an owl which flew alongside us briefly. And other birds of prey – one of which tried very hard and very deliberately to poep on my head! He literally pulled his legs forwards and then pushed them back, squeezing out a massive poop which splattered into the road just to the left of my bike. I think had his aim been a tad better, he might well have knocked me off my bike! Also an owl-house-style stone penguin on the side of the road. Also lots of monkeys draad-sitting or leaping precariously across the road or jabbering in the bushes.

After Aberdeen the road was essentially straight and narrow, and seemingly slow because of the lack of features.

There was not much traffic, very few trucks, and most traffic carrying bicycles – obviously on the way to Knysna to the Oyster Festival and its bike races. One car approaching us contained 2-3 (white) men – one of whom for some unfathomable reason gave us an ugly and aggressive finger-salute.

For long distances the only interesting things to see on the road were the distance markers!

In the late afternoon we hit pretty scenery again. A farm on a dam surrounded by beautiful hills and the dam wall curved like the hills. The mountains ahead folded and ridged – reminding me of the way butter used to be served at hotels. You know, where it was curled off the block with a tool of some sort?

We could see our shadows on the cliffs beside us on the last leg. All golden light and golden stone and fantastic grasses – huge clumps all golden green, aglow in the soft light of late afternoon when dad picked us up 29km before our destination.

Many of the trucks that passed us today had ostriches aboard, raining feathers. Where we stopped to get into the car, Charl picked up a big feather and put it in my cap.

We camped in the backyard of the Herberg Hotel, using the inside ablutions. And slept well and warm after a pleasant evening.