The beckoning counts, not the clicking latch behind you - Freya Stark

8 March 2019, Ukholo Lodge to Clanwilliam, 36,5km
Madeliefie R400

Today we saw numerous vehicles with bikes on bike racks. Charl reckons “That’s the way to travel by bike!”
We had thought to camp tonight, but yet again could not face the discomfort. On arriving in town, we spent a couple of hours hunting for budget accommodation, interspersed with visits to two of Clanwilliam’s pretty restaurants. At one accommodation option, full unfortunately, we met an archeologist unearthing stories of the earliest occupants of this land. At another, a husband had no idea what the rooms cost, saying it was his wife’s business. Yet another offered us their cheapest room at a whopping (for us) R1,400; from the look of their extraordinarily pretty garden, their room would have been worth every budget-busting penny. At the fourth, Madeliefie, we struck gold and were offered a self-catering cottage at a good discount in a home that once housed a school.
We were thrilled to find that the local Spar has a fantastic fresh salad bar, varied and tasty and making for an easy dinner. And were amused to encounter a local purchasing beer at Tops next door, his T-shirt claiming “Africa is not for sissies”.
We are in rooibos tea country, several trucks passing us by laden with sacks labelled …er… Rooibos Tea. We also, on the outskirts of town, encountered a political party truck, music blaring to attract attention to Patricia de Lille’s (Aunty Pat) newly formed, Good Party. Charl chatted on the road to a couple of men installing an electric motor on an estate gate. When he told them we were cycling to Morocco, they said, “Oh, just like Voetspore did”. Voetspore had a support team, used 4x4s, had satellite phones, travelled in relative comfort!
Last night’s host, Benjamin Thompson, may have come home late, but served us a restaurant-quality meal - steak, mushrooms and salad. His story saddened and inspired us. He had had a restaurant in Stellenbosch; a fiance. But had lost it all for reasons we did not explore. He dreamed then of a guest house, and has slowly been building his business in an old farmhouse north of Citrusdal. He has adopted two boys and become the champion of the local farmworkers, who, he says, drink from Thursday afternoon through Monday morning when they begin their work week.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…