Travel becomes a strategy for accumulating photographs - Susan Sontag

8 April 2019, Garas Quiver Park to Tses, 66km
Tses campsite N$300

When Charl asked the campsite security guard, Marius, how things were in Tses (pronounced chess), he replied: “Rustig. Dit is Maandag. Hulle is babelaas.” (Peaceful. It’s Monday. They are hungover.) His answer, though surprising laughter from us both, was sadly indicative of a Nama town where jobs are virtually non-existent. Tses lies 2km off the B1, 82km north of Keetmanshoop. There is a municipal campsite at the turnoff into town, offering three sites under shaded carports, one canvas and thatch tent-room with two beds and electricity, communal ablutions and barbecue facilities, and some fast food options until 16:00 when Elisabet leaves for the day. We had made enquiries at the campsite, gone into town to do some shopping, then come back to take occupation of the tent-room and order Russians and chips for lunch. On our return we met the governor of the area, a woman well-dressed for her meeting in town, and her driver who had brought her from Keetmanshoop, both lunching on Russians and chips. She was very impressed with the campsite, saying she liked to see initiative, and said she had come to explore options for people to create their own jobs. One simple thing that could be done to draw people into Tses is to let them know it is there. The only sign appears at the turnoff itself, and the campsite sign, instead of facing drivers in both directions, parallels the road where it is visible to a fast-moving driver for perhaps two entire seconds.
Tses is a dusty place with a rose pink police station, a couple of general dealers, three or so liquor outlets, a small casino, a couple of churches. Hard to get a handle on a town in just a few minutes, but we encountered our first beggars here since entering Namibia, though most souls were merely friendly and curious about our doings. Everywhere one hears the delightful click sounds of the Nama language, pleasing to the ear.
Today’s route, an easy ride on a cool morning with mainly flats and mild downs, revealed lots of nothing out there, except the extinct volcano, Brukkaros, which measures 1,590m at its peak and has a diameter to 4km.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…