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Daily blog Sleep Eat Routes
5-6 May 2023, Agoudal, 30km
Kasbah Citoyenne R476 [DH250]


From the top of the Tizi Tigherrouzine pass, the road essentially drops for almost 20km to the small tan town of Agoudal, which sits at the intersection of three roads: the R703, the R704 and the R317. We worked really hard for the absolute pleasure of that downhill run!
Just over 9km link Auberge Brahim where we slept last night to the top of the pass, which sits at 2265m, 385m higher than the Tizi n'Tichka which we climbed after Marrakech. We cycled the first 3km and I walked the rest, Charl managing to cycle a few short sections. We averaged 3.9kph to the top, which means that at least in theory we did the pass in a little over two hours. In fact it took us four! Some sections were steep enough to force me to a halt every 20-30m; on others we could manage 100m or so before stopping to catch our breath. In other words, it was a pretty tough and tiring morning.
Drivers waved and yelled hello and on the last sharp bend, five vehicles carrying Israelis now resident in Miami, stopped for the tour group to admire the view. They stayed to chat and take photos with us as one was married to a South African from Victory Park.
As we pushed our stubborn bikes, on the rocky slopes way above us, nomads herded their white sheep and black goats, moving fast, sometimes along paths defined by stone walls, and sometimes seemingly at random. We saw some carrying goods on donkeys and a woman with a baby on her back. On the downslope, I saw a shepherd loping fast toward the road, clearly intent on intercepting us. The speed at which he moved across very rough terrain was extraordinary. When he reached me (I could not outride him), he did not want money, but water. I had one cup left in my flask, which I gladly gave him, and Charl shared another.
We were pretty shattered by the time we reached Agoudal and glad to find an open shop (labeled Shoop) on the narrow main road. Here we bought Coke and crisps and sat on a bench in the shade, too tired just then to cycle the additional km to our hotel. Which is luxurious compared to those we have slept in for the last three nights and where we were served perhaps the best soup and best tagine since we arrived in Morocco, both cooked by young Hamid.
It's icy cold at this altitude!
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