11-12 April 2023, Ouarzazate, 39.51km
Hotel Atlas R543.04 [DH300]
Once I got rid of Charl and my panniers, I had a wonderful run into Ouarzazate. Here at last!
I mentioned in the last couple of posts two problems with Charl's bike: his freewheeling mechanism broke and his chain snapped irreparably. This meant he could sit on the bike when gravity played a role, but otherwise had to walk-n-push. Not conducive to pleasant riding.
Last night we decided we would ask our hotel host to arrange transport for Charl and his bike today. What we were undecided about was whether I would join him or cycle the 40km alone. In the end, we (I) decided on the latter.
We had slept in a fairly isolated place, and waving down a suitable ride proved difficult. Our host proposed we push on for 6km, all downhill he assured us, to a place on the road more frequented by taxis. Neither these allegations proved to be true. However, after 4 slow km, we came across a boutique hotel with a helpful receptionist who made a call and secured Charl a ride. So I left him there with my two back panniers, and free of worry and weight, I pushed on alone.
Again today the trend was down, though some careless person placed the odd hill in my path! I passed Aït Ben Haddou which we had planned to visit today (we will pop back by public transport in the next day or so) and then found myself in more open terrain, stark and dry.
We had pre-booked the Hotel Atlas and both had data so were able to keep in touch. By the time I arrived, Charl had consigned his bike to a shop around the corner and by the time I had napped and showered, the bike was back and we are optimistic it is in good working order.
We plan to spend 3 or 4 nights here, not doing much. Planning the next leg, doing laundry, relaxing... Although not a big city (population 69,000), Ouarzazate boasts a Carrefour supermarket which promises the simple pleasures of butter and cold meats and more...
Speaking of pleasures... Our room has a small table and two "kitchen" chairs. Do not underestimate the utter luxury of a chair. Few budget rooms offer anywhere to sit other than your bed, and after a long day on the bike my back needs support.
So... as in life, life on the road can throw you a curveball and force a change of plans. Despite which, a good day all round!
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The photo of the bright light is the Ouarzazate solar power station, co-funded by the Arab League and connected to the Moroccan power grid in February 2016.
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At sunset on our first evening in Ouarzazate, en route the Carrefour in search of simple dinner supplies, we stopped to admire the mosque on the main road. Outside were seated a couple of men, pouring water into plastic cups arranged on a silver tray. When they saw us, they offered us each a cup of water and four dates rolled in white newsprint, you know, the type of paper used by butchers. “Ramadan” they said, presumably because those come to pray exactly at sunset would only be able to break their fast later in the evening and this simple offering would see them through the next little while. Nice. They also pointed to a disposable plastic bag hanging in a palm tree into which we could dispose of our cups.
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In the lobby area of the Carrefour supermarket is a scale with a tall column attached to a footplate. For 1 dirham, it will display your weight in large red letters high enough above your head to be seen by passersby, and in case they miss the display, it also announces your weight in a mechanical voice! What it does not tell all interested parties is how much less you weigh than last time you stood on a scale! Since we got on the bikes, Charl has lost 5.5kg; I have lost a whopping 11.5kg.