9 April 2023, Telouet, 11.46km
Chez Ahmed R361.54 [DH200]
Yesterday on the turnoff from the N9, we were waved down by Ahmed who tried to persuade us to travel beyond last night's hotel to his, some 11km further on in Telouet. When we cycled the 11km stretch this morning, we were absolutely thrilled we had decided to call it quits where we did last night as there were a couple of tiring climbs on which we were very conscious that our legs were leaden.
In addition, Charl's bike seems to have lost its freewheeling ability which means on the downhills he has to avoid touching the pedals. Neither comfortable nor stable. Someone at a basic workshop tried unsuccessfully to resolve the issue, so Charl will have to cope until we reach Ouarzazate where we hope to find a proper bike repair shop.
Long story cut short - we are spending the night at Chez Ahmed just 11km from where we spent last night.
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday... At several spots along the pass were dogs lying on the barrier walls just watching the traffic go by. They reminded me of my maternal grandparents who used to drive to the outskirts of Bloemfontein on a Sunday afternoon, park facing the road, and watch the traffic go by!
Before checking into our hotel today, we shopped at a tiny "supermarket" for some supplies to get us through to dinner. The shop measured about 3m by 3m. You are not granted entry, but must tell the shopkeeper what it is you want and he will gather your goodies together on the counter between him and the sidewalk from which you are engaging with him. Not having a language in common can make these interactions entertaining. I could easily order what I could see (two pastries) or mime (liquids) or say in French (fromage (cheese)), but struggled with eggs (often boiled eggs are available at these tiny stores). Either my French pronunciation is off or I have the word wrong. The shopkeeper roped in help from a passerby, but even then I had to resort to clucking and flapping my elbows like wings. Poulet? (chicken) they asked. A mini squat and a hand curled in the shape of an egg elicited laughter and understanding. Then I had to ascertain whether the four eggs handed to me were cooked or not... Turns out they were not.
When researching a place to stay tomorrow night via Booking.com, I was amused to see an option that advertised a mini-bar, but also offered a checkbox that said "Please remove alcohol from the mini-bar". (In hindsight I guess this can be useful for both alcoholics and non-drinking Muslims.)
Telouet is a small town but big enough to sport a welcome ATM. As we have been on the road a little longer than planned since we last drew cash, we were running out so were glad to see it. We do carry an emergency fund of US dollars in $20 bills, but would prefer not to tap this.
One pic is the Swiss family we met last night, and one our rooftop room at Chez Ahmed.