1 October 2023, Kichevo, 47.07km
Motel Panorama 1500 den [R486]

This is 80-year old Wolfgang ("like Mozart") Holler from Cologne, Germany. He came whizzing up behind us on his electric bike, and when he departed up the incline ahead of us after a chat and photos, there was no catching him. He has been cycle touring since 2014, clocking up 40,000km. His current trip began in May in Georgia. He said Turkey was hot and Bulgaria like stepping into a freezer. "Not temperature", he said, "but heart". The Europeans have "lost their curiosity", though he is finding the Macedonians friendly. 
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Today's ride was completely different from yesterday's and though tiring was wonderful. 
We cycled 45km from Gostivar to Kichevo of which the first 22km were uphill with a 700m elevation gain. We averaged just 6km per hour to the top of a 1215m pass. Thereafter we dropped at speed for around 6km and then more slowly almost all the way to Kichevo. Such a thrill. 
While yesterday we cycled through one town after another, today we cycled mainly through densely-forested hills with only two or three aggregate excavations to see and one restaurant before the top of the pass where we took a break. At the top were several restaurants and shops drawing visitors in cars and tour buses. Some of whom gave us a thumb's up. (Several drivers passing or approaching us today tooted or waved a supportive hello.) 
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Tomorrow we have a long 60-plus km day to Ohrid with climbing. My body is tired. I hope a good sleep tonight will make tomorrow another good day. It's chilly tonight. Winter approaching...