Biking North Macedonia
24-26 September 2023, Skopje
8 Milan Markovich 1693 den [R549]
A bridge too far
This is the strangest city. An "absurdity", Charl says.
We decided that on this, our first day in Skopje, we would visit the bridges over the Vardar River, beginning with the Mother Teresa Bridge and ending with the Old Stone Bridge. We chose to cycle as our accommodation is in the 'burbs 3km south of the city centre.
As Mother Teresa was Albanian, we have been seeing statues of her since Serbia; she was, however, born in Skopje. "Her" bridge is a relatively simple affair carrying vehicles north-south across the shallow waters of the Vardar.
In quick succession between the Mother Teresa Bridge and the Old Stone Bridge lie the Freedom Bridge, the Bridge of Art and the Bridge of Civilisations in Macedonia.
We were initially impressed by the detail on the Freedom Bridge, "dedicated to the generations of people who sacrificed their lives for freedom and independence". Bas relief plaques of people in traditional costume, bronze seraphims and medallions. Later we read this from BalkanInsight: "The revamp of the bridge is part of a wider government-funded project, Skopje 2014*, which aims to give the neglected, grey-looking centre of the Macedonian capital a more monumental appearance."
Next the Bridge of Art made us gasp with its "29 sculptures of writers, composers and artists". After walking across it twice we had a cappuccino and beer at the Irish Pub opposite it and began to question its extravagance and excesses. Too many statues and way too many elaborate street lights - just too busy to give real pleasure.
By the time we reached the Bridge of Civilisations in Macedonia, we had begun to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of statues adorning bridges and buildings and open spaces.
The Old Stone Bridge "was built on Roman foundations under the patronage of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror between 1451 and 1469. Most of the Stone Bridge originates from the Ottoman period and throughout the centuries, the Stone Bridge was often damaged and then repaired."
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On our way home from our bridge tour we saw much else, most enjoying the Dali Apartments, partially derelict but still available to rent. I have included photos without comments below. Will write more tomorrow.
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*Following the destruction of 80% of the city in the 1963 earthquake... "Skopje 2014 was a project financed by the Macedonian government... with the official purpose of giving the capital Skopje a more classical appeal. The project... consisted mainly of the construction of colleges, museums and government buildings, as well as the erection of monuments depicting historical figures from the region of Macedonia. The project was seen as politically controversial... It was one of the several major initiatives taken in accordance with the policy of antiquization. It relied on a set of nondemocratic mechanisms aiming to expand the political dominance of that party and to leave its enduring stamp on city’s urban environment. Skopje 2014 has also generated controversy for its cost..."
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Paid a visit to the "largest cathedral of the Macedonian Orthodox Church" today. Construction began 1972; consecrated 1990.
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Spent the morning strolling the streets of the old city, more Ottoman than European, complete with stray cats artistically draped...
[cont.]