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The Gračanica Monastery is a Serbian Orthodox monastery. It was built by the Serbian king Stefan Milutin in 1321. The monastery was declared a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance in 1990, and in 2006 was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
The monastery is built of stone and brick. The interior walls are plastered and painted. Despite some damage, the murals are extraordinary. We were not allowed to take photos inside. Below instead are some images from the net.
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We travelled to Gračanica and back by bus. Gračanica is a majority Serb town.
While there we lunched on a Serbian dish of Ćevapi (grilled finger-shaped mince meat) served with chopped onion in a dish of Kajmak (made from milk, it resembles cheese, but "it's way better").
We also visited the MISSING monument, which includes the photos of 500 Serbs, Roma, Bosnians and Albanians abducted by Kosovo Liberation Army extremists around the 1999 conflict.
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The wounds on both sides are too fresh to be forgiven or forgotten.
Yesterday, despite having paid for delivery to a DHL near us, we had to taxi out to the cargo/customs section  at the airport to liberate Charl's medicines. The taxi and the tax cost us 2/3 of our daily budget, so we bummed a lift back to town (we were dropped 300m from our home) from two young men also collecting a parcel.
Both Donat and Erna lost family members during the war, one a toddler who was shot in his mother's arms by a Serbian soldier. Donat, however, has several Serbian friends in Belgrade.
While awaiting our package, we met a Canadian (a giant of a man probably around 6'8") with KFOR*. He has served 5 months of a 6 month stint here and believes there is hope despite saying the two sides are like rocks bashing against each other. He said it was much better here than in Afghanistan or Iraq: "At least you don't get shot at here."
*"An international NATO peacekeeping force operating in Kosovo as part of the Joint Guardian peace support operation. It began on June 11, 1999, under a UN mandate."
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Today a gaggle of girls told us we make a "cute couple"...

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