“My grandfather says that's what books are for," Ashoke said, using the opportunity to open the volume in his hands. "To travel without moving an inch.” - Jhumpa Lahiri

7 January 2020, Kolaboui to Boke, 20.6km
Motel Belle Vue 150,000GNF (R224)

It was a short, pleasant run to Boke. Shortly after entering town, passing under a rare welcome arch with wooden statues at its base, we stopped at a small place for coffee. The proprietor, unasked, prepared and presented a fresh baguette, filled with mayonnaise only, but tasty. It is rough out here. His place was clean enough, his wooden tables wiped down. But there is dust everywhere, kicked up by passing motorists. Just no escaping it. Again we discussed how rare it is to find something pretty in African towns and cities, with the notable exception of the women, dressed in bright fabrics and lovely fit-n-flare dresses, their hairstyles often elaborate and also colourful.
We had seen the Motel Belle Vue marked on Google Maps and were targeting it as possible accommodation, not wanting to go into town proper when the turnoff to Bissau lay not far from the motel’s location. We hoped, as it looked to be a little distance off the road, that it would be signposted, which it was. Extraordinary how seldom places are properly advertised in Africa. Business seems to be by word of mouth, but that leaves out anyone new to town, any passing trade, anyone you might tempt to stop who had not planned so to do.
We have a pleasant rondavel here, well-enough designed to be cool without cooling, though rooms sport fans and/or aircon. And they have a restaurant here serving, for example, taglietelle with bolognaise, a nice change we have ordered for dinner at 18:00.
A quiet day, and chilled; nice after two long days in a row.
Later: We had asked our host who had little English, if there was any accommodation between Boke and the border. He said that most nights police who manned the road came to his place for a drink or dinner. Later he sent a staff member to fetch us from our room as the chief of police had arrived. The chief, Captain Touri, told us there was no accommodation, but gave us a colleague’s number and said he would set us up at the border town of Kissimayo (not sure of the spelling as the name appears on no maps). So kind…

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…