You have no engagements, commitments, obligations, or duties; no special ambitions and only the smallest, least complicated of wants; you exist in a tranquil tedium, serenely beyond the reach of exasperation, “far removed from the seats of strife,” as the early explorer and botanist William Bartram put it. All that is required of you is a willingness to trudge. - Bill Bryson

5 January 2020, Tabéta to Boffa, 84.9km
Hotel Niara Bely 180,000GNF (R268)

Today we crossed three old-fashioned single-lane steel bridges in quick succession. I love these old bridges. Love the pattern of the trusses, and the shadows they cast. Love the uneven baseboards, and the sound they make as wheels traverse them. Don’t even mind waiting in a queue of cars and autocycles while approaching vehicles cross before giving us our turn. We have found that although the bridges are narrow, a bicycle can fit on the bridge when cars are approaching, so if the circumstances allow, we don’t have to wait…
“Maritime Guinea, also known as Lower Guinea … is located … between the Atlantic Ocean and the Fouta Djallon Plateau. The coast is indented with … drowned river valleys, that form inlets, tidal marshes, mangrove forests, and estuaries…”(Wikipedia). Bottom line: there is a lot of water out here, running west to the ocean.
Today’s road, on the whole, was in excellent condition, except for the shoulder which was largely cycle-unfriendly. Between Tabéta and Tanéné, there was way too much fast-moving traffic for comfort. Once through Tanéné, busy with its Sunday market, the road quietened somewhat and our pleasure in it increased. The vegetation has changed completely in the last couple of days. It is more open out there, and considerably drier, with lots of palms, and today, several trees similar to the Coral, but as yet unidentified, bare branches displaying deep orange flowers.
We began our day with breakfast at the Le Rio Pongo, and took soda and popcorn or biscuit breaks when we could, but arrived in Boffa tired and hungry. After our bucket bath (despite the relatively hefty price, the electricity and running water only come on at dusk, and there is nowhere to hang your clothes), our autocycle taxi driver managed to find us an open restaurant near our hotel. Sadly the food was all pre-prepared and served cold, a sort of picnic, in effect. French fries do not stand the test of time, but the roast chicken and cabbage salad were fine.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…