One travels long distances not solely for large gatherings, but for something more intangible. I have always gone out on a limb for love. A dangerous, romantic, disappointing way to live. - Jennifer Ball

25 October 2019, Old Offinso to Kumasi, 38.72km
Homey Lodge 144GHC (R411)

Charl was almost knocked from his bike by an impatient driver of an empty three-wheeler cargo vehicle. It happened in the Kejetia market where slow-moving or entirely congested traffic at a complete standstill, is enough to fray the nerves of even normally patient Africans. The vehicle in fact bumped Charl, but he managed to stay on the bike. I yelled at the man from behind Charl, but he found a rare gap and sped off. It must have been clear to him that Charl was entirely unhurt, but it was cowardly of him to leave the scene.
All of today’s cycling was peri-urban and urban and therefore tiring. Cycling into a city of two million, such as Kumasi, is always a challenge. You have to remain AWAKE at all times. Buses and trucks and three-wheelers and two-wheelers and pedestrians can appear at any moment from any angle. Passenger and goods vehicles stop and start at will. You simply cannot afford to take your eye off the ball. As the road into the city passed through the Kejetia market, a predominantly open-air market with 11,000 stores and reputedly the largest in West Africa, the traffic was considerably more manic than is usual even in African cities.
In addition, it was hot and humid and dust, fumes and sweat filled and stung our eyes. At times, we cycled the portion of road nearest the sidewalk, but this was often filled with pedestrians, driven from the pavements which are choc-a-bloc with vendors. At times we cycled behind auto-cycles wending their way between the double row of vehicles on the double-carriage road. This would work until a small three-wheeler turned the two rows into three, effectively blocking our path. At times we would weave back and forth, searching out gaps between cars standing still. At times there was literally nowhere to go and we stood astride our steeds waiting with everyone else for something to give up ahead.
We knew the road to our hotel passed a KFC, a beacon of sanity opposite Kumasi City Mall and Shoprite, beyond the mania of the market.
I had drafted the night before a plan for reaching Homey Lodge, and in the end, despite one brief wrong turn, it was easy enough to get here. The last section of road was dirt and unexpectedly rough. We had chosen to spoil ourselves by reserving a room with aircon, dsTV, wifi and hot water, at a guest house that sports a restaurant. But, as Charl says, you cannot escape Africa when in Africa. There was a blackout when we arrived early-afternoon, and all our promised treats were initially denied us. It also took two hours for our dinner to reach us due to a sick chef. But otherwise, we’re happy…

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…