4 November2023, Veliko Tarnovo, 48km
Guest House Selin 50lev [R500]

We had a fairly substantial climb out of Gabrovo* on this overcast morning, but more downs than ups to charming Veliko Tarnovo. Although it poured with rain for 10km, soaking us to the skin, it was dry for the other 30-plus kms. Our road was embraced by autumn hills in rusty reds and browns, with optimistic patches still of late-fading yellows and greens.
Shortly after arriving in Veliko Tarnovo, it began to bucket rain, absolutely forcing us to take refuge in a super Italian restaurant, there to enjoy tagliatelle bolognaise and carbonara while we grew increasingly chilled in our wet clothes and shoes. When the rain abated somewhat, we walked, pushing the bikes through the town centre, promising ourselves we would return to take photos in better weather.
We took an early-evening stroll in better weather, but hope for sunshine tomorrow, our rest day.
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Two things I don't like about Eastern / Balkan Europe. 1. Dogs are often kept chained in yards, whether private or commercial, on chains of around 5m only. 2. The plumbing system cannot cope with toilet paper so used paper has to be deposited in a bin beside the loo. Personally, because I carry and use a portable bidet, I am never concerned about a hotel host having to manage my poopy paper, but... [Believe it or not, you can access a world map displaying where loo paper can be flushed and where not at: BrilliantMaps.com!]
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*"Gabrovo is situated at the foot of the central Balkan Mountains, in the valley of the Yantra River, and is known as an international capital of humour and satire, as well as noted for its Bulgarian National Revival architecture. Gabrovo is also known as the longest town in Bulgaria, stretching over 25 km along the Yantra, yet reaching only 1 km in width at places."
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This billboard intrigued us when entering Gabrovo - then we read about Gabrovo humour...(mentioned in Gail's post). The stinginess of Gabrovans is often the target of this humour - An example: Why do Gabrovans cut off the tails of their cats? So they can close the door faster when they let the cat out, in order to save heat. (A black cat with a cut-off tail is one of Gabrovo's symbols). You can read more here: Https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabrovo_humour