I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world - Mary Anne Radmacher

6 July 2019, Cabinda to Lândana, 51.65km
Hospedaria 7,500Kz (R334)

Getting out of Cabinda was fraught as it always is cycling through a busy city, but manageable and even fun. I have been really impressed throughout our extended time in Angola with the care taken by drivers. Not only are they aware of two-wheelers on the road, including us, but they are on the whole patient and generous and exhibit remarkable spacial skills. One must, of course, continue to cycle as if everyone on the road is dimwitted, because it only takes one, but in general we feel seen and safe. Today, on a narrow, busy section of road, I played leapfrog with a bus. The driver would overtake me, then stop to disgorge or imbibe passengers. While doing so, I would overtake him, the vehicles behind me hovering patiently while I pulled out to do so. Then he would overtake me… I did have to shout at one driver beginning to move out from his parking space without checking his mirror for smaller traffic. I shouted “hey-hey-hey-hey”, a verbal hooter. His window was open and he heard me in plenty of time to stop…
It was overcast and relatively cool, with a sullen grey Atlantic visible now and then to the west. Despite the comfortable temperature, we poured with sweat all day, for two reasons: it was very hilly, with many inclines too steep to cycle, though mercifully short; and it was HUMID. I am not a fan of humidity, and have begun to dread nearing the equator and the several months we will spend where it will be both hot and humid. If excess sweat actually resulted in shrinkage, my head should be the size of a pea! (Pea-brained?)
The bush is dense and lush and green and impenetrable, with bamboo growing tall along the roadside. Charl asked me to imagine being an explorer in the 1800s, hacking my way through virgin jungle, but I prefer the relative speed of tar. Along one short stretch of road were bright red rectangular signs, each sporting a skull and crossbones and warning: Perigo Minas / Danger Mines. If you need to pee, don’t do it here.
We did not know if there was formal accommodation in Lândana so asked a policeman at the large police complex on the south side of town. He waved us on, indicating there was a hospedaria on the right. When we arrived here, it did not look promising; a little rough on the outside, and closed. But some youngsters passing by called out to a neighbour, who came over and made a call. And soon, the father and son who are still building their business here arrived to make us at home. Once behind the boundary wall, we were charmed by their attention to detail and kindness - dad even popped out to buy coke and beer on our behalf. The property has been in the family for a long time; the young man was born here. Now the family resides elsewhere in town and is converting this property into a hospedaria with restaurant and bar. A couple of rooms are ready for guests, and the bar is open from 18:00 to midnight. There is no power tonight (our lights and aircon are running off a noisy generator), and no running water. From something our host said, it seems there is never running water in town, though they have optimistically built bathrooms awaiting that modern miracle. In the meantime, we were supplied with plenty of clean water for a bucket bath and loo flushing.
We cooked our own meal, and will soon to bed. A good day…

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…