There comes a moment on a journey when something sweet, something irresistible and charming as wine raised to thirsty lips, wells up in the traveller's being - Patrick MacGill

7 June 2019, Porto Amboim and wild camp, 68,1km
Wild camp 0Kz (R0)

136km lie between Porto Amboim and Cabo Ledo, so we knew we would probably have to wild camp, unless we got really lucky. Round about the halfway mark, we did in fact come across a hospedaria, brand new atop a hill with a view into and across a flat-bottomed valley. Sadly, it was not yet operating and the owner was away, the keys in his possession. We dropped into the valley and made enquiries at a village at the foot of the hill, and were told we should cycle around 4km down a dirt road to the beach and camp there. With still over 70km to Cabo Ledo, I was not keen on the additional kms, nor the climb up from sea level first thing in the morning, so on we went, keeping an eagle eye open for a potential campsite.
I suppose the issue with wild camping is one of security. In a small tent in the bush, you are inevitably vulnerable, as are your possessions. So you want to be hidden from the road, at the very least, and from potential passersby if at all possible. But you also need to find a flat spot to set up your tent, and in Angola and some other heavily-mined countries, you do not want to go anywhere near virgin bush.
We spotted a dirt road to the east and took it. It led to what looked like an ex-farm. There was a flat space where the road dead-ended, which looked as though it might once have held a house. And an area that looked like a kraal that might once have held stock. There was a cement structure still standing, a water or food trough. This was instantly appealing to me, as its edge provided a “seat” for sitting on and a “table” for cooking on - these considerably increasing the comforts of comfortless camping. It was hidden from the tar road, but not from anyone walking the dirt road, but we decided the benefits outweighed the downsides and erected our tent beside the trough.
We had not thought to top up our water while still in the village, so did not have enough water to take a proper bucket bath. Even had we done so, I doubt we would have bathed as we could tall immediately that mosquitoes were going to be a problem. We cooked a simple pasta meal, washed our faces, and crawled into our tent in our sweat-damp cycle clothes before the mozzies wedged us in a nearby tree and sucked us dry at their leisure.
Before leaving Porto Amboim this morning, we cycled a short track to the beach where colourful fishing boats were being unloaded by men, and women and children were carrying and sorting small silver fish from brightly-coloured plastic basins. The light was perfect, the colours as intense as the activity. We saw along the road these same small silver fish laid out to dry on racks constructed of wood and net.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…