Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going - Paul Theroux

3 June 2019, Casa Branca to Sumbe, 39,9km
Residencial Vunge Kita 11,500Kz (R512)

One centimetre more and I would have been knocked from my bike. As both the car concerned and I were moving at a snail’s pace, I would probably not have come to much harm, but still… We were both negotiating a hellish section of road, a decline on the southern outskirts of the city of Sumbe, a road so badly potholed that vehicles traversing it did so with all four wheels at different levels. In addition, vehicles travelling both up and down the hill, were weaving to avoid the deepest holes, so what I saw in front of me was a wriggling snake of vehicles, like something alive and in dire straits. I was riding a narrow drunken strip of tar on the outer edge of the road where it dropped off the hillside. A driver, partially past me only, took the opportunity to put his passenger wheels on the tar, and pushed in front of me. Luckily his passenger window was open and he stopped immediately on hearing my anguished “HEY!”. No harm done…
This was our third tough day in a row. Hot, with roadworks and several hills too steep to cycle, forcing us to push our stubborn bikes in the humid heat. At each section where the Chinese are upgrading the EN100, is a detour, too rough and dusty for comfort. In general, except where actual tarring is taking place, we have been able to cycle the sections of road either being prepared for upgrading or partially upgraded, avoiding the detours. We have been able to cycle them despite barriers placed to prevent motorcyclists from doing just that, though it is clear they before us have breached the barriers.
Another pretty day with a river running between cliffs, the highlight.
As with Lobito, once through the outskirts of town and approaching the beach, we entered a different Sumbe. Better roads, less traffic, clearly more wealth. Tired, and wanting to spoil ourselves a little, we checked into Residencial VK on the city side of the beach road, a yellow building that did not advertise itself as a place offering accommodation.
We dined in the evening at a restaurant across the road, one that faced onto the beach, presenting us with a lovely sunset. Dined on the very best meal we have had since entering Angola - a rice and mixed fish dish. Yum.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…