Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content with a sedentary life, that I will always be haunted by thoughts of a sun-drenched elsewhere - Isabelle Eberhardt

25 May 2019, Quilengues to Chongoroi, 58,6km
Pensão [unnamed] 3,000Kz (R134)

Today Charl encountered a chameleon (trapsuutjie in Afrikaans, which translates aptly as a “tread softly”) making his cautious way across the road. Though there is little traffic, he was in potential peril, so Charl persuaded him to speed up, ushering him into action with a back-handed tap.
We again spent our day surrounded by mountains, our road threading its way through the foothills clustered beneath them. Up we would go on a long incline, breath hot, then crest it and drop down the other side, quite often to a small bridge over an alleged stream. Then up the next hill, cooling again on the down that followed. Not an easy ride in the heat, but the gradients all manageable with appropriate stops to rehydrate.
When I aim my Huawei P20 Pro at a photographable spot, it either identifies “blue sky” or “greenery”, accurate descriptions of our surroundings. We were pleased to encounter baobabs again today, a smaller variety than that found further south, but stately still and lovely. In the fields, grain sorghum, some bananas, some oranges, some sugar cane; khaki bush and cosmos on the verges.
The roadside is dotted with homesteads and smallholdings, some more prosperous than others. Rondavels (round huts) of wood and thatch, some mud brick structures. Near many, the residents or villagers offer for sale in large bags, charcoal, or dried meat hanging from a strung line, or what might be cassava in colourful plastic basins - we still need to identify this regularly seen item. The residents match their homesteads, some more prosperous than others. Usually a stick in a cairn of stones with a plastic bottle or scrap of fabric attached serves to advertise the sales spot to passing motorists.
This morning we met the owner of our hospedaria, who took our photo and in answer to our simple question: “Pensão Chongoroi?” said yes, we would find accommodation today, but not tomorrow in Catengue. He suggested we camp at the police station there. Anyway, we came into Chongoroi feeling optimistic and were not disappointed. We have put down roots at an unnamed place, unadvertised, but known to the locals, with green and purple walls. We have a small room with an en suite bucket bath bathroom and fan, but currently no electricity on which to run it.
There was only one soft drink option on today’s ride, so as soon as we entered town we stopped at the first Mini Mercado to buy a sugary drink, ice cold. While Charl was inside, I stood with the bikes and was soon surrounded by kids, curious and polite. At some point I had gathered such a crowd that the security guard decided to send them packing. A little further on we crossed a river. Looking over the bridge, we were delighted to find that many women and children were taking advantage of the midday heat, washing clothes, bathing, swimming. A social gathering, brown bodies under a hot sun.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…