Because he had no place he could stay in without getting tired of it and because there was nowhere to go but everywhere, keep rolling under the stars... - Jack Kerouac

13 May 2019, Ondjiva to Xangongo, 98,9km
Pensão Escola do Kunene 8,000Kz (R357)

We had planned a shorter ride to Mongua, but when we reached “town”, it comprised very little and we cycled on to Xangongo where there is a pensão and restaurant and ATM.
We were happy with our accommodation last night. It was basic, but cheap and clean, with an unexpectedly decent restaurant serving a filling buffet for dinner and a thick meaty soup with Portuguese rolls for breakfast, the latter included in the room price. Tonight’s accommodation looks more upmarket, but also offers only cold water showers - we’re not complaining too much about the cold water as it is still very hot during the day, though the leaves are changing to autumn.
We needed to perform two administrative tasks before leaving Ondjiva: firstly, we needed more cash than we had been able to draw yesterday; secondly, we needed to purchase local SIMs and a data package each. Again, we had to visit several banks before finding one with cash in the ATM. One bank manager told me he only fills the ATM at noon - don’t think he has a handle on the 24/7 concept for self-banking OR there is a cash shortage OR security is an issue! Then we bought SIMs and data from Unitel, but these can be activated only after 24 hours. Given that neither our pensãos to date have offered wifi, we will be out of touch with family and friends until tomorrow.
In both Ondjiva and Xangongo security has been obvious with individual guards sporting semi-automatics at all banks and outside several shops and garages.
Today’s ride was relatively flat, our safe shoulder continuing on a surface in good condition. We cycled past numerous military vehicles, rusted and abandoned following the Angolan civil war / South African border war. And past women carrying goods on their heads. And kids eating from the seed pods of baobabs. We saw more water in waterholes than we have seen for a long time, though southern Angola has also been in the throes of a terrible drought. It seemed to us possible that some holes were being filled via pumps from a municipal source though we can’t confirm this. And past people selling charcoal and butchered meat on the verge. And people carrying chickens for sale, upside down. And on the edge of Xangongo we saw a very long line of autocycles waiting their turn at a petrol pump. The Energy Minister has recently been fired for his handling of the fuel shortage.
A long day, but good.

For today's route see below photos
For overview route, click on ROUTE tab above…