6 January 2024, Cienfuegos to Santa Clara, 70km
Casa Lorenzo, $15 (R265)

Today was our last on the bikes. After two nights in Santa Clara and four in Havana, we begin the long journey home.
We cycled over 70km from Cienfuegos, a lot of it on a gentle, intermittent incline. We were grateful for another relatively cool day, one of several in a row. And for the in-general polite and careful drivers.
In the four weeks or so we have been here, we have had one truck incident and one dog incident - not a bad tally.
One of the sugar-cane truck drivers pulled back into his lane a tad too early to safely accommodate both me and the third of his articulated truck-trailers. Not killing-close, but enough to give me a skrik (fright).
And today, two dogs took exception to me, chasing me and barking at my heels. This was somewhat disconcerting as to date we have been completely ignored by all stray and loose dogs of which there are many. I yelled at the dogs, as did several locals who managed quite quickly to call them off.
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The first couple of photos were taken in Cienfuegos' main square. The last was taken by Charl in a much rougher Santa Clara.
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Our hosts in Santa Clara both speak Russian as their second language. He is a weightlifting champion and architect; she is a lawyer. They share their tiny home with their university-age daughter.
You step from the sidewalk into their miniscule lounge and directly from there into the kitchen. A door leads from the kitchen to an outdoor passage which runs the length of the remainder of the house.
The daughter's bedroom is accessed from the kitchen; the main bedroom from an external door at the back of the property.
From the tiny courtyard there, a flight of stairs leads up to two lettable en suite rooms and a rooftop terrace with place to sit and some weightlifting equipment.
Tucked under the stairs, is the family bathroom.
It is hard to believe we are in the home of professional people.
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Odd sod
We have come to assume that the prolific burglar proofing is just that, as opposed to an expensive status or fashion statement.
Tourists are told there is little violent crime, but that they should protect against pickpockets.
We have everywhere felt safe physically, but have been told on one or two occasions to put away our money (after buying something at an open-air stall) or watch our phones.
Tonight in Ciego de Avila, our hosts, a middle-aged woman and her elderly mum, seem particularly anxious about our safety. They have insisted we lock our upstairs balcony door, and move our cycle clothes out of reach of anyone climbing the stairs to our level. It is hard to imagine anyone doing so, as the neighbours on all sides are close enough to touch. Maybe the neighbours are not to be trusted.
This site tells a story of increased violent crime, a reality the state seems reluctant to share: https://cubasiglo21.com/public-insecurity-in-cuba-alarming-increase-in-crime-rate/.