29 July, Veysel Karani to Bitlis, 62km
Özçavuşoğlu Otel 80TL (breakfast included) (negotiated down from 150TL)
We spent the day dwarfed and daunted by
grandeur on a stunning ride, though tough. Our road shared a valley with the
Bitlis River, climbing against the grain. The first 30km comprised long inclines
that had us looking down on the shallow river, and downhill runs that brought
us alongside the stream; the second 30km was a long, long climb to Bitlis.
Motorists in holiday mood stopped to offer us a lift or to have their photos
taken with us and share an icy soda. Though the temperature was mild, endless
climbing made us hot, so we loved our numerous water stops. At one, Charl lay
in the river, shoes and all, and filled an empty soda bottle for me to pour over
head and shoulders. From two others we departed, thirst quenched by sweet icy
water, hats and shirts soaked to cooling point. At a fourth, calcium-rich water
dripped from high above the road, creating a stalactite-like travertine. Here we
literally took a shower icy enough to chill (and cheer) us. In the late
afternoon we had a slightly unpleasant experience. We were walking into Bitlis
from our excellent hotel a km away. A group of rowdy kids on the opposite side
of the four-lane road first greeted us then began to demand “Money, money”.
When we ignored them, one boy took a couple of potshots at me with his pellet gun,
his second shot hitting me on the head. The kids scattered when Charl crossed
the road toward them, but he traced the culprit to his home, entered, giving
the mother quite a fright, and made a fuss the non-English-speaking father
could not understand, but for which he sincerely apologised.

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Between Veysel Karani and Bitlis

Bitlis

Bitlis