20 September, Inebolu to Ilyasbey, 42km
Otel Gϋven Palas 50TL

We had hoped to sleep in Doğanyurt, but when we got there found there was nowhere to do so – no hotel or pension or room to let. We had to do an additional 10km to Ilyasbey, therefore. Funny how a short day can turn into an all day outing. We had left Inebolu a little later than usual given the short distance planned. Just 6km outside town, Charl’s back tyre, the discarded one we had picked up some days ago, began to shred. So Charl hitched back into town with his wheel in hand while I awaited him under the shelter of a rural bus stop. Then, on another rainy day, we had to conquer one headland after another. It did not matter how far we cycled, when we looked east along the coast, we could still see Inebolu. Picture this... a dozen headlands jutting north into the Black Sea. Between each headland, a valley containing a river. If the valley is narrow, the road does not drop all the way down to the sea. It runs inland and drops only to a point where it can cross a spur or bridge and make its way back up the side of the next headland. Sometimes a small village will be sited at the crossing point, or in the hills above. If the valley is wide, the road will drop down into it and pass through the village there beside its harbour before wending its way more steeply and for a longer period back up the next headland. The road seldom goes over a headland. Instead it hugs the hill part way up, climbing and dipping across the headland edge until it reaches the next valley. In Ilyasbey, a town of only 480 souls, we stayed in an old-fashioned hotel with a shared squat loo and linoleum on the wooden floors. Both restaurants in town were closed when we arrived, so we dined on an odd assortment of supplies bought from two small shops including fruit and corn and crisps and chocolate.

Between Inebolu and Ilyasbey

Between Inebolu and Ilyasbey

Between Inebolu and Ilyasbey

Between Inebolu and Ilyasbey

Between Inebolu and Ilyasbey - spot Gail cycling