26 August, Akçaabat to Tirebolu, 74km
Öğretmenevi 50TL

Another day on the Black Sea coast. A day of black beaches, some sandy, some stoney. Early on we cycled past a sand beach, where plastic chairs in white, tan, red and black were tipped to lean forward onto white plastic tables, a defence against condensation. As the day grew warmer, we saw families gathered on stone shores, picnicking and swimming. Unusually, we saw also from the road two enormous swimming pools, an incongruous blue. Only a few people were swimming here, but they included one woman in a pink bathing suit and two others, both clothed in a hijab (headscarf) and abaya (long black cloak).* Our road had a nice wide shoulder and tunnels through which we had to hurry, but which eased us under rather than over the green headlands dotted with homes and towns. It is hazelnut season, small-scale farmers spreading the nuts on the verges. “Sun-drying unshelled hazelnuts helps them develop the rich flavor that keeps worldwide buyers coming back to the Turkish varieties” (saudiaramcoworld.com). Tirebolu’s öğretmenevi is located up a steep hill behind the town, our room up several flights of stairs offering a super view off a tiny balcony.

* Styles and names of Muslim dress vary from country to country – I may have these wrong.

Between Akçaabat and Tirebolu

Between Akçaabat and Tirebolu

Between Akçaabat and Tirebolu

Between Akçaabat and Tirebolu

Tirebolu

Tirebolu

Tirebolu

Tirebolu